A garage/shop where there is potential for prolonged exposure to oils, brake, and transmission fluids. Outside and wet areas where water can sit on the floor for long periods of time. Commercial kitchens.
Frequently Asked Questions
We've encountered and fixed all of the following and more:
Holes, cracks, pitting, chipping or deteriorating regions, unlevel concrete, stained/contaminated surfaces...
We've removed: glues, mastics, epoxies, tac strips, vinyl & ceramic tiles, hardwood flooring, spalled concrete, carpet, deteriorated expansion/control joint filler, concrete embedded bolts, conduit, nuts, wires...
What we do not touch are places that require fixes we'd consider structural engineering issues. This includes mud-jacking floor, pouring new concrete, strengthening structures/stairs/floors, addressing sinking or failing concrete slabs. It must be understood that we provide only cosmetic surface fixes. The closest thing we do to structural work is self-leveling your floor.
(In order from least to most expensive)
1. Leave them as is. A very common option, but dirt & debris get stuck in there making cleaning difficult. This option is also not recommended for warehouses/shops that have metal wheels that will dip into the joints and chip away at the concrete as opposed to smoothly rolling over them. The joints also potentially cause a tripping hazard to persons in high heels.
2. Fill joints with solid cement. If your slab moves, which it likely will, you'll have random cracks develop and of course the epoxy will chip up in the areas where your concrete is cracking. Epoxy is strong, but not strong enough to keep your thousand pound slab together against geological forces. This is actually a very good option, especially if your slab has settled over time and you don't mind the look of some random cracks here and there or possibly everywhere. Many people like this look over having those stupid control joints!
3. Fill the control joints with elastomeric polyurea and put your epoxy or polyaspartic coating over them. This will look similar to option 4 when finished. BUT, as time passes, if your concrete moves, settles, expands, contracts, shifts, you MAY have cracking and chipping at the control joints. What you will likely have as well is a telegraphing of the control joints through your design. So you may end up seeing where the joints used to be. Polyaspartic coatings are more flexible than epoxies, so there will be less chances of chipping/telegraphing, but still very possible and/or likely depending on your floors movements.
4. Epoxy your floor, then fill the joints with a elastomeric polyurea compound that will stretch and contract with your concrete's movements. If your joints are thick, option five may be more cosmetically pleasing.
5. Fill control joints with a solid cementitious product, apply the epoxy, then saw cut thin 1/8” control joints back in place. Then leave as is or fill with elastomeric polyurea. This gives you very thin joint lines that look quite nice when finished. Obviously if you fill the joints with polyurea it will be easier to clean.
They are not normally, but when wet with water or oil they can be. All the flooring solutions we provide conform to OSHA coefficient of friction specifications for floors. For specific flooring options like urethane or polyaspartic clear coats we include small anti-slip aggregates into the clear coat mix. This consists of an extremely hard material (aluminum-oxide) that actually helps strengthen your floor as well as give you traction. If you'd like additional anti-slip properties in your floor, like is common for public bathrooms, kitchens, and workshops, we can provide you with one of our common epoxy aggregate mix option.
We advise that you keep it clean of debris dirt and grime and clean up chemicals and wines as soon as they are spilled. You can do this with a ph neutral cleaner like 'simple green' and a micro-fiber mop. You can also just use plain water or a dry micro-fiber mop for routine maintenance. We highly recommended that you occasionally apply a coat of wax to your floors to help them stay strong and shiny. About once every six months should be sufficient for most residential environments. We will recommended for you a specific commercial grade wax for you to use, depending on your floor.
Polished Concrete, Concrete Stains, and Epoxies are all excellent choices. They do not support the growth of molds, pollens, or dust mites. If you have a kitchen or laboratory project in mind let us know, we have numerous products that are specifically FDA approved for these applications!
Absolutely! With polishing, the chemicals used to strengthen your existing concrete are extremely safe. There is no waste or material that eventually goes bad and needs to be thrown out and replaced, you're just using your existing floor to it's full potential! We also do not use acid based stains and so there is no harmful waste involved in our concrete staining/dying process.
You may also qualify for LEED points on your project by choosing a polished concrete floor.
Yes, when you choose a highly polished concrete floor or a bright colored epoxy, the lighting in your room goes a lot further, reflecting off the floor and helping to illuminate your space. In the summer you can also save on cooling costs.
No, however, we can recommend you a few contractors who will do right by you.
Contact us for color charts and design suggestions. A molted one or two color design pattern is very popular. You can have company logos, names, symbols, football teams dyed onto your floor. We can make you a variety of patterns including checkered, diamond, wavy lines, symbols, or colored pathways. If you have a design in mind we can work with you to put that down on your floor.
A polished concrete floor is a concrete floor that has been honed smooth and undergone a strengthening densification reaction. The densification process is a transformative chemical reaction which produces a dense crystalline lattice in the top layer of your concrete. This increases your floors resistance to the following: Abrasion, impact, chemicals, stains, chipping, pitting, erosion. It makes your concrete less porous while increasing it's density, sheer strength, and tensile strength. To top off this we apply a silane based clear coat that we melt into the floor for added chemical and stain resistance. This process creates a surface that can still transmit moisture vapor from inside your concrete floor (a good thing), while making the surface too dense to easily transfer liquid/chemical stains. The polar bond in most common chemical/ liquid stains remains intact, simply beading and pooling on the concrete surface, unable to penetrate the sealer or your concrete's dense crystal filled pores.
A concrete floor gets coated with an epoxy or polyaspartic that have some sort of aggregate then sprinkled onto it. There are a few reasons for doing this. The foremost being that this gives you a high traction floor that is very slip resistant. This surface can also be excellent at hiding dirt and grime. This concrete flooring solution is typically, but not exclusively, used in garage floors, kitchens, and bathrooms. Where oil, water, and chemical spills are likely. We can and often have the aggregate go up the wall a few inches in what is called a cove. This helps cleaning these areas much easier as any spills can pool and not soak up into the concrete on the wall. The aggregate options are sand, quarts, viynil flakes, glow in the dark flakes, or UV luminescent particles. The lowest cost aggregates are sand and viynil flakes, followed by quartz and then the glow in the dark ones. The quartz is more expensive because more layers of epoxy or polyaspartic are required to properly apply these, so you are in essence paying for a thicker more durable floor.
You can get a metallic epoxy with anywhere from one to three colors. These can be spread onto your floor in an endless variety of fashions, making wave patterns, criss-crossing, or gently flowing between each color randomly (the most common). The metallic epoxies go on very thick and so give you a lot of surface protection for your dollar. The thickness also gives the metallics its depth and allows the epoxy to flow across your floor and blend the colors with unique patterns. Epoxies are naturally very durable and impact resistant, despite this we still recommend a clear coat or at least keeping the floor protected with a wax. Scratches have a tendency to show easily on such artistic floors. So if you anticipate anything more than simple foot traffic, we advise topping off the surface with a urethane clear coat. The price we quote you will include a urethane clear coat, unless you specifically ask us to omit it.
We can do one color epoxies, multi-colored metallics, or aggregates.
You can do a stain and clear coat, an epoxy and clear coat, or a polish. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages, as well as unique options to suite your needs and application.
Not all floors are suitable for polishing, if your concrete slab has many large cracks or holes that you'd like patched, these patches will stick out. If your concrete floor is very uneven or wavy a polish may bring these imperfections out. The price can be relatively high for a very high gloss finish compared to stain & seals or one colored epoxies. Polished concrete floors can be susceptible to staining by certain chemicals, especially strong acids or bases and may not be suitable for laboratories or workplaces handling them. Negligence in cleaning up spilled stains, chemicals, or hard water, will likely leave a stain if left sitting on the polished floor too long. Polished concrete floors are also unsuitable for commercial kitchens exposed to high levels of grease which will create a slippery surface. Here an epoxy floor with aggregate is more appropriate. Give us a call and we can help you pick the most suitable floor options.
You can choose one or multiple colors as well as your level of shine:
Flat finish: 50 grit
Matte finish: 100 grit
low-gloss: 200 grit
Medium-Gloss: 400 grit
Glossy: 800 grit
High Gloss: 1500 grit
Maximum Shine: 3000 grit
Centennial: The Clue Room. Job Details: 2,200 s.f. Job involved demolition of wood flooring, VCT, glue, patching holes, colored logo, 5 different colors applied, borders, polished to a medium-gloss finish. Address: 7255 S Havana St Ste 101, Centennial, CO 80112
Aurora: Golden Flame Hot Wings. Job Details: 1,100 s.f. Job finished over two day holiday involved removing a thick epoxy coating less than a year old, hole patching, coloring with 'concrete gray' dye, and polishing to a medium-gloss finish. Address: 18757 E Hampden Ave Ste 156, Aurora, CO 80013
Colorado Springs: Rock Family Church: Job Details: 9,200 s.f. including carpet, glue removal, & hole patching. Polished to a low shine flat finish. Address: 4005 Lee Vance View, Colorado Springs, CO 80918
Commerce City: Adams City High School: Job Details: 5,800 s.f. Concrete polish after water damage was taken to 1500 grit with a burnished clear coat. Address: 7200 Quebec Pkwy, Commerce City, CO
Lone Tree: Functional Strength Pilates: 1,400 s.f. Low shine polish with Welsh Slate Color added. Address: 10047 Park Meadows Dr., Lone Tree, CO, 80124
You can leave these on if absolutely necessary but realistically, you should remove these for any kind of flooring work your considering; concrete or otherwise. We can do this for you if you like.
The details: While we have done plenty of work without removing them, it's not advised, and it will cost you more for us to have to carefully work on your concrete floor without doing too much damage to them. If you insist on leaving your floor boards on while we work, it should be still noted that they will inevitably get nicked, scratched, damaged, and dinged in places. Our tools have to be very powerful to grind concrete floors and your option is to either have unfinished edges or for us to try to get right up against them with 8,000 rpm hand grinders spinning a diamond embedded metal alloy disk. If you're getting an epoxy done, your baseboards will be partially embedded in the epoxy floor, this is especially the case for a reflective/metallic epoxy floor that has a thick build. With concrete floor polishing, the chances of damaging them goes up as we have to make numerous passes along your edges with ever finer polishing grits.
Yes, a one year warranty comes standard on all of our workmanship. If you'd like an extended warranty we would be gland to oblige you. We don't take shortcuts in our prep work or materials and so are glad to offer you written reassurances on our products and services.
Leave them as is. A very common option, but dirt & debris get stuck in there making cleaning difficult.
Fill them with a elastomeric polyurea compound that will stretch and contract as your concrete moves. This will also help protect your concrete at the joint lines. It eliminates a blunt impact by wheels and dragging objects. It also makes your floors far easier to clean. Not to mention safe for high heels, roller blades, pogo sticks, and the like not getting stuck and preventing a potential tripping hazard.
We start our the process by exposing your concrete floor's inner surface layer using high end concrete grinders equipt with diamond embeded bits. We use HEPA filtered dust extractors to maintain a clean environment while we work. The next step is to apply a top end (Colloquial or Lithium based) densifier to your concrete to initiate the hardening and strengthening chemical reaction in your floor. Next, we carefully hone a shine into your floor by using ever finer diamonds to achieve your desired level of glossiness. It is this process that separates the experts from the amateurs in this industry, as it requires hitting your concrete floor from multiple angles at just the right speed with just the right tool, set at the proper power level and keeping a close eye on your floor to make sure that no spots are missed or neglected. Finally, we melt an industrial grade protective coating into your floor with a heavy duty high speed burnisher. This process enables the guard layer (a silane based polymer) to form a strong covalent bond with your polished concrete floor. This coating will act as a wear surface that will prolong your floors shine and strength.
Because a polished concrete floor is so durable, it requires less maintenance than nearly any other flooring choice. Nonetheless, you should try to keep your floor free of dirt and debris that can slowly wear down the smooth surface. Periodically it's recommended to re-apply a protective coating we refer to as a guard. Re-application timing will depend on your usage. We can provide you with a maintenance schedule, but generally if you're a moderately busy retail store, once every six months should suffice. For residential usage, a year or more is typical. It can be easily applied with a micro-fiber mop. We also offer a maintenance plan which absolves you from worrying about when to re-apply and we use a more industrial burnish activated coating.
hese are all two part polymer flooring systems that are both mechanically strong and highly impact resistant. Polyaspartic floors are more costly and come with some advantages. One being that it dries much faster for turn around of 24 hours for vehicular traffic. Polyaspartic floors are also more flexible, chemical resistant, UV stable, and abrasion resistant. Urethanes are very similar to polyaspartics, but not quite as durable or fast curing. We typically like to coat our epoxies with a urethane or polyaspartic clear coat. We believe that this combination gives you the best of both worlds, the epoxies give you the most bang for your buck, laying down a thick layer for an affordable price, then topping that off with a durable urethane or an extremely tough polyaspartic wear layer.
Parker: One Color Polyaspartic (Grey) Awaken Chiropractic
9208 East Pine Lane, Parker, CO 80138
Lousiville: (between Westiminster and Boulder right off I-36) 6 different colors of metallic epoxy separating the space into 4 zones.
318 McCaslin Blvd, Louisville, CO 80027
This figure depends on how much prep work the concrete in your joints need, the fill volume for your joints, and the amount of control joints you have. We own an large urethane/epoxy mixing and dispensing pump which we can bring to your project to pass on the lowest install cost possible. Compared to the caulk gun cartridges most contractors use, our bulk material cost is 8x lower and we can dispense material at 12x the speed. There are also countless concrete control joint filling compounds on the market with which we are familiar with. It is strongly advised to use a knowledgeable expert in selecting your joint filling compound. Feel free to give us a call so we can help guide you to an appropriate solution and provide you with a free quote.
For the most part price is determined by how shiny you want your polished concrete floor to be. Other big determinants are how much repair work you want done on your concrete. Whether you want to fill in your control joints or not. If you're getting a color with your polish or not. If we can get our 1,000 lb. grinding machines into your space and whether you have adequate power supply or we have to use a generator. If you want us to work overnight on a rush schedule through weekends or holidays. Lesser factors include: How far away from our shop you're located.How much work you're having done. Some discounts are possible too: If you're paying by cash or check, are an existing customer, or served in the military. All these factors have to be calculated and more to give you a final price. We have a civil and mechanical engineer come out to your home or business, assess the condition of your floor, and provide you with a free estimate. We'll provide you with many prices and options within 24 hours of after seeing your concrete floor.
28 days is recommended for all of the above. If you're getting a new slab poured and are thinking of using our services to finish your concrete floor, please give us a call first, we can provide you with some suggestions regarding the concrete mix and curing additives; especially if going with a polish! Some non-retarding concrete curing additives can increase the cost of your polish.
You should use a ph neutral cleaner such as 'Simple Green' with a micro-fiber mop to clean up chemical spills. You would follow that up with plain water and finally dry off your concrete floor. If your floor is just a bit dirty or dusty, you can simply use a dry micro-fiber mop.
Yes, we will assess your floor usage and contact you at the appropriate times to schedule a cleaning and protective coating application. We will at those times examine your floor and tailor our schedule to meet you and your floors requirements. We would use a more industrial coating that requires high pressure and high speed burnishing. This product literally melts into your polished concrete floor providing you with superior protection, longevity, and less frequent maintenance. We provide our customers with a maintenance schedule upon completion of your concrete floor polish. Give us a call and we can help guide you with your polished concrete floor maintenance program.